Japan is well-known for its strong cultural identity and pride in its traditional clothing, with perhaps the strongest example being the kimono. Such traditional Japanese outfits have been worn in Japanese society for thousands of years.
That being said, Japan is not stuck in its tradition! Its biggest cities such as Tokyo and Osaka are breeding grounds for new fashion subcultures and where they can evolve and expand not only across Japan, but internationally too.
Japanese fashion is not only interesting to behold, but often has a deeper meaning than we might expect at first glance. Often, there are elements of each style which goes against standard societal norms, making them stand out from the crowd.
Harajuku, a neighbourhood in Tokyo, is particularly renowned for its out-there, bold fashion statements and it is where many of today’s style subcultures are born. If you want to see some of Japan’s most out-there fashion styles, look no further than Harajuku!
‘Harajuku fashion’ is a term often used to describe the avant-garde looks born from the Harajuku area. This is more of an umbrella term, as there are multiple categories of style which derive from the fashion hotspot. One of the most recognizable substyles in Harajuku style is called ‘decora’.
Decora
Decora (デコラ) is one of the most maximalist styles you can find within Japan’s vast fashion world!
Decora stems from the word ‘decoration’ and incorporates bold, bright colours along with as many accessories as you can pile on! It is sometimes regarded as the face of Harajuku fashion globally, and is often the image you picture when you hear the term ‘Harajuku fashion’.
In terms of clothing, anything goes as long as it is vibrant in colour —t shirts, hoodies, skirts, leg warmers.
If you don’t already have dyed hair, wigs are a popular accessory. If you don’t have either, no need to worry, because you will be filling up your hair with a multitude of colourful hair clips anyways!
As far as accessories, anything can be an accessory, as long as it’s cute! Common accessories include children’s band aids across the nose, stickers dotted all over the face and chunky statement rings.
Lolita
Lolita style (ロリータ) is one of the most iconic and recognisable of all of the Japanese fashion subcultures.
Lolita fashion is inspired by Victorian era clothing, —think frilly petticoats, extravagant headwear, high knee socks and delicate parasols.
This subculture usually manifests in pastels to emphasise its cute nature as opposed to the rich, regal style of Victorian clothing from which lolita derives.
Lolita fashion became popular during the 80s, and where else but the streets of Harajuku! Lolita fashion is very intricate, from hair to makeup to each piece of jewellery. It is almost as if you are looking at a living doll!
Although it initially appears as a purely aesthetic method of expression through dress, there is actually said to be a deeper meaning behind lolita fashion.
With its longline skirts, stockings and gloves, this modest style challenges the idea that women dress up to please men, and instead dress for themselves and their own interests. I mean, lolita fashion is hardly a guy magnet, and why should it be?!
Gyaru
The term gyaru (ギャル) actually comes from the English word ‘gal’. A gyaru is characterised by her tan skin, heavy makeup, bleach blonde hair and outfits which may be regarded as more revealing than those typically worn in Japan. It almost seems like a caricature of Japanese society’s idea of a westerner woman’s appearance.
Gyaru fashion stands out as it goes against the typical beauty standards of Japan and asia in general, that being light skin, dark hair and natural beauty makeup-wise.
The gyaru lifestyle in itself is a statement, as it aims to emulate a western femininity that contrasts with a traditional Japanese idea of femininity.
Gyaru are often loud, out-going and like to party, as opposed to the more reserved personality Japanese girls are usually expected to uphold.
Visual Kei
Visual kei (ヴィジュアル系) is a fashion subculture which was popularised in the 1980s by the underground music artists and groups of Japan. These particular music artists were part of the glam rock, metal and punk scenes, which the style aims to reflect.
Characteristics of this style include dark colours, thick eyeliner, straightened or teased hairstyles, belts and buckles, often with a rococo edge.
It is a notably androgynous, romantic style with a theatrical element and is sported by both music artists and their fans at shows and events.
Visual kei breaks down the barriers between men and women’s fashion as it is common practice for any gender to wear makeup, and not simply natural camera makeup that some idols wear, but a complete full face from eyeshadow to lipstick!
Yami kawaii
Yami kawaii (ヤミかわいい) is one of the more obscure fashion subcultures that can be seen in Japan. Yami can translate as sickness, darkness or despair, and kawaii of course means ‘cute’ – two things which can almost seem like a juxtaposition.
The style rose to popularity in around 2015 and aims to incorporate themes related to illness such as face masks, needles and fake blood, but in a cutesy way, of course…
At first glance, it may seem hard to understand, and even a little disturbing, however there is a deeper meaning than simply being a way of dress.
Those who are a part of the fashion subculture tend to be sufferers of mental illness and use clothing as a way of expressing emotions that they find difficult to deal with or talk about.
By being a part of this community, one can find like minded people and escape the feeling of isolation that poor mental health can exacerbate.
Amekaji
Amekaji (アメカジ) is an amalgamation of the words ‘American casual’. This style is a Japanese take on American style clothing. It is generally used to describe men’s fashion and includes elements such as denim jackets, flannels and leather shoes.
Although amekaji does not have as much of a community or deeper meaning compared with the other fashion subcultures previously discussed, it is just as prevalent these days so deserves a spot on the list!
A few years after World War 2, American culture influence began to spread amongst the youth of Japan. People were influenced by American movies, celebrities, tourists and also through Japanese tourists who were inspired by clothing they saw while on their own travels to the US.
These days, western-style thrift shops are increasingly popular. Notable thrifting neighborhoods include Shimokitazawa, Koenji and of course, Harajuku.
If amekaji is your style, definitely check out these areas for those all-American vintage college sweaters, leather jackets and more!
Japanese fashion styles recap
Related posts
- Words for Clothes in Japanese (Easy Beginner Language Lesson)
- Your Complete Guide to Traditional Japanese Clothing: Kimono, Yukata, Hakama and More
- 10 of the Craziest Japanese Festivals You Must Visit
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Additional image credits:
Shibuya Gal by Danny Choo, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Flickr
Jacob Ehnmark from Tokyo, Japan, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
N509FZ, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Hannah is a half Irish/half Japanese girl living in Ireland. Her love for Japan and the Japanese language led her to studying languages and translation in university where she specialised in Japanese. She spent a year studying abroad at Rikkyo University in Tokyo. In her free time, Hannah enjoys using her sewing machine to upcycle clothes and create new pieces!